thank you, thank you, Lonely Planet

When I first started reading about Morocco, I came across something called the "hammam" or public baths. Here, it is not uncommon for a home to have only cold water, which leaves most Moroccans fleeing to the hammam once or twice a week to get a good ol' fashioned scrub-down. I'll admit, at first I thought this was one of those experiences I'd have to count myself out of, but when my new California buddies, Christine and Alex, asked me to go on their last day in Fès, I couldn't say no. And the funny thing is that now I'll probably never want to take a regular shower again. I can already tell some of you will be reading this in utter confusion, so let me explain the process of the hammam.

1. First, walk into the locker room, strip down to your skivvies
2. Take a handful of community resin made of olives and spread liberally. Don't be surprised if random Moroccan women ask you to get her back, and especially don't be surprised if they get yours without warning
3. Hang out in the "vaporium" to let your pores open and skin soften. You are about to undergo a major pummelling
   
4. Lie down on the tile tables as a herd of hammam employees wearing skirted unitards swarm you with exfoliating gloves (al-kis)
5. Close your eyes, don't look at all clumps of dirty, dead skin they scrub off your body. Also keep in mind, these women have no inhibitions and scrub even the places you yourself would overlook while bathing
6. Rinse off--by yourself--standing--in a shower
7. Hang out in the jacuzzi for a bit
8. Return to the tiled table, try not to slip around too much as the hammam employee now massages you with soapy water
9. Shower again. Once again, by yourself
   
10. Don a robe and sit in the relaxing room, which is basically a dimly-lit room with the world's most comfortable chairs.
11. Safee! You're done!

I think I'm in love. I want everyone to come visit me in Morocco just so I can show them the wonders of the hammam. It's.....life changing. Brilliant. Genius.

To get off the topic of my new-found love for bathing, here are some pictures of the medina. I went there this past weekend, which is where I met Alex and Christine. The medina is unlike anything I've ever seen before. Imagine the ghetto meeting up with the 16th century and having a completely functional, completely touristy baby, and that's what the medina is. Anyway, onward with the photos:

one of the biggest tanneries in Fès. Unfortunately, the smell isn't as amazing as the sight: